Graham and Béatrice Nutter owners of Chateau St. Jacques d'Albas
The view from Matthew Stubbs MW
'Travelling around visiting wineries and wine tasting may seem like the perfect job but much of the time it can be very mundane and repetitive. What makes the task interesting is finding something truly extraordinary, a wine that is sublime, vineyards in spectacular locations, a dedicated Vigneron with a passion and commitment that runs from the top of the organisation down to the wine in the bottle. Chateau St Jacques d’Albas is one such place – it simply takes your breath away.
'Inspired by a visit he had to Thierry Manoncourt of Chateau Figeac in St Emilion, Graham Nutter, the owner of this splendid chateau, decided to buy a vineyard in Southern France. Having looked at over 40 places, none of which were suitable, he must have been losing heart. One morning he received a phone call from a vineyard property agent saying “I think we’ve found the place”. Graham hopped on the next plane to Carcassonne and knew from the moment he drove over the stone bridge at the entrance to this 75 hectare estate that the search was over. That was 2001 and since then Graham and his French wife Béatrice have quietly gone about renovating all aspects of this property. The achievement so far includes a reworking of all the vineyards, the creation of a brand new winery and barrel cellar to a magnificent reception area, music room and now outdoor terrace with views over the vines.
'From a property 5 years ago that used to sell all of its grapes to the local Cave Cooperative, Chateau St. Jacques d'Albas is now one of the leading properties of the Minervois producing it's own French wine. Minimal chemical intervention in the vineyards, with yields around 35hl/ha and vines with an average age of over 30 years , the full potential of these great vineyards is now being realised. No white wine is produced here yet (although Graham will be producing a white over the next few years) but you will find one of the best Rosé wines in the whole Languedoc, and 3 levels of red Minervois. Dispite having achieved so much in the last 5 years, there is no "resting on laurels" with Graham. Always posing questions, requesting comments and opinions on his French wine there is a constant willingness to keep on improving and adapting in a positive way'.
The beautiful chapel which gives its name to the top wine of the estate 'La Chapelle St Jacques d'Albas'.
Where is the Winery?
Domaine St Jacques d’Albas is situated in the South of France just outside the village of Laure Minervois in the Department of Aude about 30 minutes from Carcassonne.
Who owns the Winery?
Graham and Béatrice Nutter are the owners of St Jacques, Graham a Londoner and Béatrice (who is French) have owned the estate since January 2001. Graham and Béatrice have a son Andrew and a Daughter Julia. They are supported by Marc Bonnavenc, the Régisseur (Estate Manager) and Martine Bonnavenc who live full time on the Estate. The Winery is supported by an Australian Consultant Oenologue, Richard Osbourne, who has worked in the Languedoc for over 15 years.
The estate has 2 dogs Patou, a Border Collie and Tana, who is predominantly Pyrennean Sheepdog and who was rescued from the wild, and 2 cats Mali (who was rescued from under a bush in Montpellier!) and Minette. When you visit the estate Tana will bound up to you making lots of noise, but do not worry he is really soft –his bark is definitely bigger than his bite!
Why did you become a wine maker?
Graham has been interested in wine since his days at University and while living in Paris in his 20s he had friends who had vineyards in the family. When Graham and Béatrice married, she said that ‘one day they would own a vineyard’. It took over 25 years, but the dream has now come true.
What is your wine making philosophy?
'Minimum intervention in the process, minimum stress on the vines and maximum expression of fruit and terroir'.
How large is the Winery?
Domaine St Jacques is currently 75 hectares (a hectare is 10,000 sq. m, or approximately 2.2 acres), but soon to be increased to 80+ ha with the imminent purchase of additional neighbouring vines. 22ha are currently under vine; with 6ha just planted or available for planting and 5ha awaiting purchase. The Winery also has 0.5ha of Almonds.
Grape Varieties (Cépages)
The Winery is planted to the red cépages 40% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 25% Carignan and 5% Mouvedre. The age of these vines varies from 30+ to 5 years old.
White varieties are newly planted and represent 5% of the total under vine, with one third each of Viognier, Roussanne and Vermantino.
Classification of Vines.
The Syrah, most of the Grenache and the Carignan planted on higher ground are all classified AOC Minervois, while the lower planted Carignan and some of the Grenache are Vin de Pays.
Yields
Yields are kept low at around 35hl per ha to ensure concentration and quality.
Cultivation
The vines are planted to c4000 - 4500 plants per hectare with all new planting trained on trellises with some of the older Carignan and Grenache trained as Gobelet.
The Winery uses a cultivation regime called méthode Cousinié which minimises chemical inputs to the vineyard, and after foliage and soil analysis, uses organic fertilisers and mineral sprays. The method is akin to homeopathic medicine which assists plants against drought and disease. Weeding is mechanical, not chemical. Pruning of the vines is severe to limit yields and canopy management flexible according to the requirements of the year.
The grapes are 100% hand harvested.
Soil characteristics and vineyard exposure
The soil at St Jacques is a clay-limestone and standstone mixture within an undulating landscape with an average altitude of 80m. The fields for red grape varieties are at different altitudes and exposures allowing the Winery to maximise the annual fluctuations in climate. The newly planted white vines have a more easterly exposure in order to develop better acidities.
Woodland and garrigue tends to separate most parcels, providing a more balanced ecosystem and helping to protect from disease and pests.
The History of the Winery St Jacques d'Albas
The site of St Jacques d'Albas has been a settlement since at least the 8th century when the Visigoths appear to have settled on the Winery. A Visigoth tomb was found on the site in 1908. The are the remains of an 11th century chapel on the site (hence the name of the Winery) that is surrounded by the ruins of a village that was abandoned in the 16th century due to religious strife.
The current site of the St Jacques complex dates from the early 18th century and vine growing became the dominant crop in the 19th century. It is possible (but not proven) that the Winery was on one of the St Jacques de Compostelle routes (the pilgrims' route to Santiago de Compostelle in Northern Spain) and this could be the origin of the name. This story is also supported by the occasional pilgrim who has turned up at the estate in the past!
For many decades the grapes were sold to the local Cave Co-Operative. Graham negotiated an exit in 2001 and now all the grape harvests are vinified on site.
A recent edition of Decanter Magazine (one of the UK's leading wine journals) mentions Chateau St.Jacques d'Albas and awares the red wine 'Chateau St Jaques d'Albas' 3 stars commenting; 'Syrah dominated with a little Carignan and Grenache. Re fruit with a hint of laural. Palate round, full but balanced. 'Classic' weight and texture. Drink up to 2010'.
